Like me I think you would be better taking a wide angle image which captures some of the landscape around you, whether that be mountains, buildings or even people? The 'shot' will have to be a composite though, because capturing the surroundings along with a foreground during an eclipse is going to require several shots of different exposures combined.Ī shot like this captured well might just be the one that goes viral, rather than a shot of the eclipsed sun alone. Thank you for putting together that information and everyone for contributing to the conversation. Any ideas on exposure or what to get to take with me? I suppose I could use the same disposable filter over that lens. Do you have any tips for that? I have 720 and 950 nm filters for that camera. I know that at 200mm the sun will be small in the frame, but aside from that, can that setup work?Ģ) I also have a camera I had modified to do full-spectrum infrared photography. We're going to make a short vacation out of it, so the actual eclipse photos will just be a few of many in the book and to show friends on my iphone or ipad/facebook when we talk about it. I know I won't be taking the type of photos you folks with super duper lenses and things that move the tripod head, but do you think there's any reasonable chance to getting some decent pictures with my setup to put in a photobook? I got a disposable solar filter from a well known NYC photo store.
![using backyardeos for eclipse using backyardeos for eclipse](http://www.madmanrc.com/images/Owl_hunting_sea_turtles_in_the_moonlight_-_St._George.jpg)
I'm primarily going to the NW to enjoy this probably once in my lifetime experience.ġ) I also plan to take my Sony A6000 and travel zoom lens (200mm max) and tripod. Now it is time to choose the system fit for the job at hand! In this case, would it not really matter whether you used a camera with a higher pixel density because all of the atmospheric turbulence would reduce resolving any greater detail that could be gained? I mean this just for single shot images, not for stacked images, where the greater pixel density might help depending on the conditions.Įxcactly - and now you are asking the question: what is the limiting factor, the camera and lens combination, or atmospheric turbulence. Capturing a sharp image of the sun with a dslr in a single image would be pretty difficult due the atmospherics, turbulence & other factors which affect seeing conditions.
![using backyardeos for eclipse using backyardeos for eclipse](http://docplayer.net/docs-images/52/30158777/images/9-0.jpg)
However, the D7100 has substantially more pixel density than the D600 (crop mode 10.1mp), therefore it should capture finer detail. As Jerry pointed out, no matter what the sensor type, the subject will project the same size at the plane of focus. You have a 500mm lens and two cameras at hand, a Nikon D600 and a Nikon D7100. You want to capture as much detail as you can because it is quite far away and will be small in the frame. Let's say, for example, you want to photograph a bird which regularly perches on a post in your yard.
![using backyardeos for eclipse using backyardeos for eclipse](https://i.redd.it/mw1fh1by9mp51.jpg)
you got it!Ī very interesting conversation & I think I have learned a bit. Use a 1600 mm lens and the solar image will. Use a 400 mm lens and the solar image will be half the diameter (one quarter by area). Use a large image sensor the sun will fill less of the image sensor.īut the diameter of the image of the sun will stay the same, assuming the same focal lenght in every case (like 800 mm here). Use a small image sensor the image of the sun will fill more of the image sensor. The diameter of the sun stay the same - image sensor sizes are different. Just draw a circle, 7 mm in diameter - and draw any image sensor size you want to around that circle representing the sun. When using a lens with 800 mm focal lenght, the diameter of the projection of the sun will be about 7 mm (the diameter of the image of the sun at the focal plane).